ラ・グラップ（La Grappe）  西麻布/フレンチ（NishiAzabu/French）

ラ・グラップ。この暖か味あるフレンチ・レストランがあるのは西麻布1-11-1という憶えやすい住所。そこには六本木通りから数十メートル入っただけとは思えない落ち着きがあり、自分の為だけに隠しておきたくなるようなバーやレストランが幾つか佇むエリアでもある。

その一角にあるラ・グラップは、時間をかけてフランス料理とワインを楽しむ、大人の為のレストラン。

そのラ・グラップをユニークな存在にしているのは、周囲からのレスペクトであり評判。それはフランス料理が好きで、時には辛辣なコメントを発するような人たちの間での評価が安定して高いという事。必ずしも声高に絶賛するのではなく、しんみりと『あそこは良いよね・・・』と語り、『もう何回も行った・・・』と言う人も少なくない。更に『良い店だよ・・・行ってみれば』と薦めてくれる他の店のシェフや関係者も多々存在。

その理由は、この店のオーナーでもある加藤シェフの料理。シェフ自らは料理について饒舌に語る事はなく、自らの料理を『飾り気がない』と評し、フランスで過ごした4年半に関しては『アッと言う間で・・・したかった事は沢山あるんですけど・・・』と話す。その一方で、『でも料理をしていると時々フランスでの経験が役に立ってると感じますね』と、少しシャイな笑顔で語る。

テーブルに運ばれてくる料理を見て直ぐに判るのは、加藤シェフが時間をかけて丁寧な仕事をしているという事。しかし食べる側に媚を売るような派手に着飾った料理ではない。食べ始めると、体の内側で徐々に湧き上がってくるのは心地よい満足感。そして、その満足感が次の皿への期待感となって膨らんでいく。シェフが食材の産地や、調理法に関して多くを語らずも、強いこだわりをもって料理をしている事は食べてみれば判る瞭然たる事実。

そしてシェフが料理と同じ位こだわるのは、ゆったりと食事ができ、時間が経つのを忘れるような空間を提供する事。程良い明るさの店内で醸し出される雰囲気はフランスの田舎町にあるようなレストランを思わせ、気取らずに自分のペースで料理とワインを楽しめる。そしてデザートの後もワインを飲み続けてしまいそうな居心地の良さ。

是非、この西麻布という少し気取った夜遊びに相応しいエリアにあるラ・グラップで、フランスの田舎町にいるかのように気取らず、ゆったりと時間をかけてディナーをお楽しみあれ。

La Grappe is French restaurant with a very comfortable atmosphere and an address very easy to remember; 1-11-1 Nishi Azabu. Even though it is less than a minute walk from the always bustling Roppongi Street, the area surrounding La Grappe is in fact very quiet and relaxing. Nestled in the area are small but select restaurants and bars you would like to keep to yourself or share with only your close friends who can appreciate them.   

La Grappe is definitely one of those restaurants, an unpretentious haven for discerning palates, to savor well prepared French food and wines at an easy pace. 

What makes this quintessential small French restaurant in Tokyo slightly different from others is its reputation among professional and self-proclaimed food and restaurant critics. They usually make very simple comments like “I like the place very much” or “I don’t remember how many times I have been there”, instead of making colorful comments explaining why they like the place. Also, many chefs cooking for other restaurants highly rate this place. Interestingly, they also make very simple comments like “That’s a good place you should go”.

The secret is chef Kato and food he dishes up. He does not eloquently talk about himself or his food. Instead of hyping his dishes up, he describes his dishes with words like plain or simple. When asked what he did during his 4 year culinary excursion in France, he simply answers, “It went too fast to learn many of things I wanted to learn”. However, he very shyly admits, “I often feel it was worthwhile when I am cooking in my own kitchen”.

What you understand when you see his dishes delivered to your table is that he cooks with extra care and attention to detail. However, it does not mean his dishes are sexy or flashy. In fact, you start enjoying their tastes only slowly. And, your expectation for next course grows steadily. The chef does not talk about ingredients he sources or cooking techniques he applies unless someone asks him to explain. However, without asking, you will know he is sourcing quality ingredients and applying exactly the right cooking methods to them.

Also as the owner of the restaurant, Chef Kato makes sure that his guests have a comfortable dining experience. This is very important for him because he usually has to take time to cook as he is only one in the kitchen. His cozy dining space is softly lit. It has the atmosphere of a small restaurant you might stumble upon in the French countryside. This is a kind of place you would like to relax at and keep drinking wine even after you finish your dessert.

Please enjoy a long and slow dinner at this small unpretentious restaurant in Nishi Azabu.