仙水（Sensui）  四谷三丁目/和食（Yotsuya3chome/Japanese）

一口に「日本料理」と言っても、懐石・割烹から寿司・天婦羅、鰻・串揚げそして「創作和食」まで、種類、価格帯共に本当に様々な店が存在している。このことは、店選びの選択肢が増えるという意味では歓迎すべきことかもしれない。しかし一方で、フレンチやイタリアンの店を選ぶ以上に日本料理の店を選ぶことが難しくなっているようにも感じられる。そんな中、「仙水」は一言で言えば「真っ当な価格で、きちんとした日本料理を楽しめる店」として、自信を持って薦められる一軒。

「自分の料理はクラシック系」と語るとおり、店主　小林　俊彦が供するのは素材、だし、水にこだわったきちんとした日本料理。素材は「その時期に一番旨いモノ」にこだわり、だしは料理として完成した時点で一番活かしたい素材に応じて使い分けている。そして水は「週に一度か二度、自分で成田まで湧き水を汲みにいく。」という徹底ぶり。「洗い物以外、水道水は使わないし、浄水器の類もありません。」という。

だが、自分のこだわりや昔からの決まり事をひたすら守るだけの「頑固者」ではない。素材やだしへの探求、また洋の素材であるジビエを和食にとり入れるなど、「基本を押さえた上での微変」は現在進行形である。また、「冬はやっぱり鍋、食べたいですよね。」と、あくまで顧客目線。予算を含めた顧客のリクエストには、柔軟に応じてくれる。

荒木町（＊住所は舟町）に自分の店を構えて久しい。途中町内の引越しを経て、現在の店舗は新宿通りから荒木町のメインストリートである杉大門通りに入り、しばらく歩いた左手。カウンターと３つの座敷からなり、接待から１人使いまで、幅広く利用可能。新宿区の真ん中でありながら暖かい「気」が少しゆったりとしたリズムで流れるこの街を、象徴するようなお店である。

The definition of Japanese cuisine is often very diverse and vague. This is partly due to the number of distinct categories and specialties including sushi, tempura, eel, kushiage to name a few. This is further complicated by the creation of constantly emerging subcategories which produce a wide array of creative and often eclectic dishes. This means that there are an immeasurable variety of Japanese restaurants identifiable by the type of food they serve. And of course, prices for the restaurants in each subcategory also range from quite expensive to extremely reasonable.

This vast array of choices would seem to be a welcome situation for all of us with a passion to eat. However, selecting a good Japanese restaurant is not an easy task. In fact, it is definitely more difficult to select a good Japanese restaurant than selecting a good French or Italian restaurant, even for Japanese people. This is why eatpia.com is confident and pleased to recommend Sensui, a restaurant serving real Japanese cuisine at a fair price.

The owner of the restaurant, Toshihiko Kobayashi calls what he dishes up somewhat authentic. He is very particular about the ingredients and the water he uses. Throughout the year, he selects items best representing each season. Depending on available ingredients, he decides what kind of dashi he should use. Dashi is a type of soup base or stock considered fundamental to Japanese cuisine. It can add tastes such as sweetness, tartness, bitterness or saltiness. And, Chef Kobayashi is completely obsessed with the water he uses: Once or twice a week, he goes all the way to Narita for the water he uses in his cooking. He will only use tap water to wash dishes.

On the other hand, he is not a fundamentalist blindly believing and adhering to the old ways of doing things. In his quest for more knowledge about ingredients and dashi, and is willing to turn to non-Japanese items such as game meat, to create his version of Japanese cuisine. With his firm grip of the fundamentals, he is not afraid of pushing the envelope. At the same time, he does not forget to see things from his customers’ point of view. He is very flexible in accommodating the various requests he receives from them.

It has been a quite a while since Kobayashi opened his own restaurant in Arakicho/Funamachi near the Yotsuya Sanchome crossing. You can walk to this shop located on the left hand side on Sugi Daimon Dori, which is the main street going through Arakicho, from Shinjuku Dori. The surrounding area has a very relaxed and warm atmosphere in spite of the fact it is the very middle of the constantly bustling Shinjuku ward. In fact the restaurant itself represents the area’s warm and relaxed atmosphere. This small restaurant with only 3 tables and a few seats along the counter works for various occasions from entertaining your business client to having quiet dinner alone or with your friends.