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トレディチ アプリーレ 西麻布/イタリアン
13 aprile NishiAzabu/Italian
『イタリア南部の小さな港町、中心部の賑わいを少し離れてブラブラと小路を入ると、小さいが良い感じのレストランがあった。』この文章の『イタリア南部〜港町』の部分を『西麻布』に代えた描写がぴったりくるレストラン、それがcucina 13 prile（クチーナトレディチ アプリーレ）である。
西麻布の目立たない場所に佇む小さなレストランのクチーナ（キッチン）で寡黙に控えめな笑顔をたたえながら仕事をする日高シェフが心がけているのはシンプルな美味しさ。『その場でわっと仕上げていくトマトソース。塩、温度、素材で作り上げる、その瞬間の熱がイタリア料理。シンプルであることの豊かさ、力強さ、広がりを追求したい。』というのがシェフの考え。
鎌倉野菜でつくるサラダ、もしくは一つ一つ異なる手法で火入れされた鎌倉野菜の盛り合わせを味わえば、シェフは過度な自己主張を嫌い、素材そのものの個性を主張させようと集中していることが分かるはず。そして京都若狭湾や日本海から仕入れる魚介類、さらに産地直送の国産の肉類にこだわるシェフが食材の個性を尊重するということは、すなわち生産者のこだわりを尊重しているという事でもある。
そんなシェフの控えめな自己主張を感じられる手打ちパスタは常時８〜１０種類揃う。粉の違い、生地の違い、そして形の違いにこだわりながら手打ちならではの、パスタの美味しさを追求する。さらにパスタの個性を際立たすソースとのマッチングにシェフの料理人としてのセンスが表れる。
イタリアの田舎をイメージした店内はオフホワイトの壁にアンティークのイスが並ぶ。この空間の図面引きから配色、壁塗りまで、全てシェフとスタッフの手作り。入り口側の白い木枠の大きな窓を開けると、緑に囲まれた小さなテラス席へ向けて『風がスッと抜ける』独特の爽快感が広がり、何とも居心地が良い。アフリカから南イタリアの漁村に吹く風、『シロッコ』を感じるように。
This is the kind of small restaurant you would love to stumble upon if you were a visitor to a small port city somewhere in Southern Italy and had managed to meander away from the main street. If you were to take such a stroll away from bustling Nishi Azabu crossing, with luck you might discover this very small cucina situated behind another restaurant located off a backstreet.
Working his magic in this small restaurant’s cucina, the Italian word for kitchen, with a humble smile on his face is Chef Hidaka, whose culinary philosophy is that to create the greatest taste the dish must be kept as simple as possible. He also believes that the biggest attraction of Italian food is its improvisation.
You will understand and appreciate his philosophy by trying Salad with Fresh Kamakura Vegetables or Assortment of Grilled Kamakura Vegetables. He obviously avoids overcomplicating dishes and being self-assertive, preferring instead to allow his selected ingredients assert their own characters. He uses only domestic meats and sources seafood from Kyoto Wakasa Bay and the Sea of Japan. He respects all those from whom he sources the ingredients from by respecting all the ingredients they grow and catch for him.
Also manifesting his humble assertiveness is a variety of his handmade pastas. You are encouraged to enjoy their differences in flour, shape and texture. The Chef, of course, pairs them with the perfect sauces made from his fresh ingredients.
The restaurant itself, gently welcoming with its eggshell colored walls and a scattering of brown tables & chairs inside, is designed and decorated by the Chef and his staff. You are caressed by the refreshing breeze as it gently whispers through the large wood framed window by the entrance to the patio where a few more tables await their guests. |
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